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maclec
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 Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2005 12:14 pm Post subject: Questions on how to tell if artistis good or right for you |
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How do you tell if a artist is for real. I have been in a few shops .Some seem to be clean but not good in the art department or high price for cheap work. Or tell you it's going to take 3 hr. to do a 1hr. tattoo ????
Ok here is my story yes im one of those idiots who had scrachers use a sewing needle on me when i was a teenager  .20 some years later I wanted to get them coverd up, so I go shopping but I ran in to this .
One shop apears clean but his work seemed to take alot longer then what others said it would price was high the pics he has done were not good. The next shop had what seemed to be a good artist high priced and not so clean in the waiting room which brought up alot more questions .But moving on one artist couldn't make a drawing had to get someone else to draw it basiclly no freehand ability .
So all you artist out there what would you look for and ask about if you or your freinds where going to get a tattoo from some one beside you . On a personal note I have had 2 real tattoos done both took about 1 hr from start to finish there about the size of a closed fist and 4 to 5 colors about $200. But the first artist died good old man and the other is 3,000 miles away. So i'm trying to find someone who is good in New England and not someone who says there good.
maclec@prexar.com |
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TatsbyBones
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| Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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I will give a few of your questions a shot. First, how to tell if an artist is "real". That one is as simple as checking out his or her portfolio and seeing if thier style is compatable with what you are looking for in your tattoo. On to the price..Most good artists charge $120 and up per hour for thier services. You are paying for their experience and talent. We (tattooers) have no quarrel with those that charge less. They above all, know what their work is worth. Basically if you don't feel comfortable, your questions are not answered to your satisfaction, or you do not like the artwork, look elsewhere. Try waiting for a convention near you. There you will be able to see samples of many different styles, sizes, and prices. You will also get answers to any and every question you may have.
Good Luck!
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TheTattooArtist
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| Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 5:38 am Post subject: |
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Maclec, I tattoo in Missouri, and here, we have to have our own licences. Their is a shop licence, but we all have to be induvidually licenced to work. That may be one thing for you to look for, but I cannot say if it's the same in New England. But what Tatsbybones said was the best in my opinion. Look at portfolios. If you don't feel comfortable where you are, don't get your work done there. But don't make the deciding factor the price. High prices don't always make for your best tattoo, but I do agree that most know what their artwork is worth. And yes, a convention is a great place to look.
Good luck to you maclec! |
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maclec
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| Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:15 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for your response. It will be very helpfull in the future.
I have 4 more scraches to cover up.I don't mind paying good money for a good tattoo but I realy don't want to pay alot for a bad one.
There going to be covering up a bad one already I would hate to have to get it covered up again.I have gone to a expo and I did find a good artist and she did really good work that I'm very proud of but her shop is 3000 miles away but if I remember right there was about 4 others there that I would of trusted.
See this is the problem that I'm seeing I wanted a wolf tearout put over a small skull on the inside forarm I asked one guy he said $350 3 hour's and it would have to go around the arm a bit his wife did most of the drawing and I think clean the shop it was clean this is the one good thing I can say. His portfolo didn't look that great he put times on the pics and every thing 3 or more hour's. I could tell you about the other shops but there about the same story give or take a few details. So I went to a expo and got it to fit nicely not to big can't see the old tattoo it took 45min oh stoped once for me to get some candy and something for me to drink and wipe the swaet off and it cost just under $200. My wife says if I can fine a artist as good as the one at the expo she would like a tattoo I have been looking ever since. |
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maclec
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| Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:33 am Post subject: |
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Sorry all i lost site of my QUESTION.
Basically as the old saying gose you can dazzle them with brilliance or baffle them with bullsh-t well what would you look for or ask about to tell the diffrents between brilliance or bullsh-t |
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kate1211
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| Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 11:47 am Post subject: |
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The key is in the portfolios, and knowing what to look for in them.
After you have determined the shop is clean (autoclave?spore tested? how often? Cross contamination courses?Obvious appearance of place...)
Then ask to see the portfolio.
Look for original designs (things that are not on the flash on the wall)
Ask specific questions. What is their preferred style? How much experience do they have in cover-ups? Ask them to point those out in the portfolio for you. Since it IS a cover-up your price will probably be higher than a standard off the wall flash tattoo.
Be polite but ask away! Ask enough questions to feel comfortable and confident with the artist you choose. Most of the "real deals" are not offended. Remember it is not rude to ask them about health or custom art procedures. It is rude to say things like "So and So up the road would do it for 150"
Good luck!
Kate |
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BadWolf
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| Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 3:16 am Post subject: |
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I travel to Maine quite often. Just got back from there this past Monday, and will be going back in a month.
All I can say is "GOOD LUCK" finding a place there that is up to even minimal standards. My Girl's family is there, and they wait till they come to visit to get their work done.
By this time, everyone doing tattoos should be educated enough to be in compliance with modern aseptic practices. If they aren't, they never will be...and unfortunately with the influx of untrained scratchers opening studios, VERY FEW studios meet minimal requirements.
Anyone doing tattoos should have some inner force driving them to keep up on these things, and will spare no expense, and go to whatever means to do so. If not, they aren't tattoo artists.
Here is what I look for:
In a studio with one artist, I want to see 5 rooms.
1. The waiting room.
-This room can get dirty after a busy day. The staff should make an attempt to keep it clean and organized as much as possible.
2. A seperate procedure room.
-Must be seperated from the rest of the studio by at LEAST a 4 foot wall. Preferably, it will be an entirely seperate room. In no other way can an artist assure you of cleanliness, as he will have no control over the environment of the work area. This room should be VERY CLEAN...no clutter...no stuff sitting on the work area that isn't absolutely necessary for the tattoo being done. Everything else should be in cabinets or shelves away from the work area, and sterile instruments should be kept in a locked cabinet in suitable containers with lids to keep them from being tampered with. No carpet...floor should be tile or some scrubable material. Walls cleanable, and everything should be set up to be easily cleaned after each and every client. Anything touched in this room from the time you sit down, until you leave, should be autoclavable or disposable. Barriers should be used on everything else. Barriers must be changed and surfaces should be cleaned with a high level disinfectant between clients.
3. the restroom.
-Should be maintained properly.
4. The cleaning room (where contaminated instruments are addressed.)
-This room is NOT to be used for any other purpose. It MUST contain a sink. The restroom CANNOT be used for this purpose, either!! If their autoclave is in this room, or if this room is not seperate from the rest of the studio, RUN...don't walk...RUN to the exit!!...and don't touch ANYTHING on your way out!
5. A seperate sterilization room with spore tested autoclave.
-Nothing else should be in this room aside from bulk sterile instruments stored properly in suitable containers. Contaminated instruments should be wrapped and placed on autoclave trays in the cleaning room (4) and taken to the autoclave room where they are placed DIRECTLY into the already opened autoclave without coming into contact with ANYTHING ELSE. Contaminated gloves should be removed and disposed of, THEN the autoclave door closed and the timer set. Nothing that is contaminated should EVER enter this room in any other way. NOTHING in this room may be touched with contaminated gloves or other contaminated items.
THIS ROOM SHOULD BE SPOTLESS!
It is not difficult to provide for such a room. There is no excuse for not having one. A medium sized closet can be converted with minimal expense, since the only thing in it will be a sterilizer. My studio had an offset area that is 5 feet by 7 feet. We closed it off and put a door and ventilation in it. The small room is easier to keep clean, and converting the space cost a hundred bucks or so if you are handy with power tools.
If they won't take the time to do this, RUN TO THE EXIT!
DO NOT BE FOOLED! An indicator strip or a "pass/fail" indicator is NOT a spore test. The studio should have doccumentation of AT LEAST monthly spore tests done by an outside source.
If more than one artist is working at a time, each should have a seperate procedure room.
These rooms cannot be combined in any way and still be safe. This is why it is nearly impossible to work from your home safely. It would take the entirety of most people's houses. If the studio isn't set up in this fashion, ask when they intend to start meeting standards. If you work in a place that doesn't meet standards, it is easily accomplished. You have no excuse aside from laziness or lack of knowing...and now ya know.
If the space you are renting will not allow for this, MOVE.
Then I look for the certificates from health courses they have completed. At a MINIMUM, they should have a red cross certification in 'preventing cross contamination'.
Only after they have met this criteria, will I bother to leaf through a portfolio. Up until then, (or if they can't meet those requirements) their portfolio is absolutely meaningless. If they are filthy, the best art work in the world isn't going to get me in their dirty chair at ANY price.
If the artist meets those requirements, and is doing the type of work I want, I will pay top dollar. It is worth it.
Unlike others, I will not recommend getting a tattoo at a convention. They are fine for checking out art work, talking to artists, and meeting freaks... but anyone who thinks tattooing in a room with 200 other artists, where 5000 people with open wounds are walking around bumping into each other is a good idea, might just need to learn a few things about cleanliness.
Think about it...would you willingly walk into a room with an open wound where 5000 strangers with open wounds will be drinking and grinding against one another to wade through the crowd?
Great plan!
If anyone wants to discuss why these things are necessary in an adult fashion, or would like for me to elaborate, I will be happy to do so. If you want to whine and pout because you can't or won't meet those standards and want to throw a fit, I couldn't care less. |
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Te Boon
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| Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:23 am Post subject: |
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Hello Mr Wolf. Could you please tell me what are the "barriers" that you referred to.
Thank you
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BadWolf
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| Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:19 am Post subject: |
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Certainly!
From the time you sit down in the chair (or lie on the table, etc) EVERYTHING that you or the tattooist touches, including said chair or table, MUST BE AUTOCLAVABLE OR DISPOSABLE.
Since the machines, spray bottles, countertop, lamp, power supply knob, etc. cannot be thrown away or autoclaved, it MUST NOT BE TOUCHED. So, the only way to prevent that is by putting a barrier between it and your grubby hands, as well as the client's bloody body part. They make barrier film, which is a poly 4X6 inch sheet with a tacky adhesive for some surfaces like knobs and lamps. Poly bags work well on spray bottles, machines, clip cords. Poly/paper bibs work well on counters, chairs, etc.
Hell, even butcher paper with the plastic coating on one side and masking tape is better than nothing!
Even though the barrier was used, the surface must STILL be cleaned with a high level germacidal solution, once the contaminated barrier is removed and discarded, and a new barrier used for each client. And the barrier should be removed carefully, so as to not contaminate anything during or after the removal.
WHY must it still be cleaned?
Because if something is disposable, we don't have to worry about it coming in contact with the next client. It simply get's thrown away.
If it is autoclavable, I can VALIDATE...scientifically...that it is clean and sterile, by using indicators, pass/fail strips, and regular spore testing.
But even if I contaminate a spray bottle with my bloody glove, then clean it with a high level germacidal, I cannot VALIDATE, SCIENTIFICALLY that the germacide worked as it should have....nor can I scientifically validate that a barrier worked...unless I have a lab come and swab the bottle, do a culture, and wait a week until I take someone else in.
When the two are used together, it works this way
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1. The barrier controls or prevents contamination from getting on the surface.
Now, in the off chance something does get by,
2. The germacide will LIKELY kill it.
And in a worst case scenario, if the organism survives both 1 and 2, (and remember...we cannot scientifically validate, one way or another) then,
3. The next barrier you put on that bottle will likely CONTAIN anything left on it, and keep it from getting from the surface to your glove to the client.
So, on their own, neither cleaners nor barriers are acceptable for non-disposable or non-autoclavable surfaces.
But, combined, they work to slant the odds GREATLY in your favor...they make the risk negligable...almost non-existant.
Hope that explains it! |
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Te Boon
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 3:06 am Post subject: |
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Hi there. Thank you for taking the time to reply with such an educated and professional response. The site did not email me that you had responded.
But just to make sure; When you enter the procedure room everything in the room should have a plastic layer of film covering absolutely everything except the floor. It must be quite a time consuming job to change the barrier on everything. But I guess not once you take the customers safety into consideration.
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BadWolf
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 4:05 am Post subject: |
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You are quite welcome!
Not everything in the room has to be covered...just anything you and the artist will be in contact with, or may become contaminated.
In an operating theater, where deep incisions and invasive procedures are performed, they use sterile instruments in a sterile environment.
In tattooing it's more like using sterile instruments in a clean environment as the procedure isn't nearly as invasive. It is similar to a minor surgical procedure (removing a mole, or a root canal) in a doctors/dentists office as opposed to having it done at the hospital O R.
The work bench...which should only have what is necessary for YOUR tattoo on it, (all the knick-knacks and his lunch and other junk should be elsewhere) should have a barrier where the setup is. The chair or table you are in or on. The spray bottles, clip cord, machines, arm/leg rest. (a bath towel on his lap isn't good at all)
I put some on the handle of my lamp, in case I have to adjust it while I am working. The knob on my power supply, in case I need to fine tune it...just things that you or the artist might get blood or body fluids on.
If for any reason, he has to touch something outside of that, which isn't covered, he MUST first remove his contaminated gloves...do what is necessary, then put on new gloves.
We just do not want cooties getting from one person, to a surface...where it might later get picked up and crossed to another person. It's basic common sense stuff, really.
As for time to do all of that, I can completely tear down after one client, and set up for the next in about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on what was used. That's not an issue, because I usually want to clear my head between people. |
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BadWolf
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 5:02 am Post subject: |
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Just to illustrate how thoroughly and easily it is done:
When I tattoo, and it involves using an arm/leg rest, I turn a cheap garbage can liner inside out and put it over the arm/leg rest, so it is completely covered. Then, for comfort, I put a poly/paper dental bib or an "underpad" over that...it is absorbant.
When the procedure is done, I address the re-usable (autoclavable)instruments by removing them to the proper area, and drop the used needles in a sharps disposal unit.
Then I take all the barriers that were used on everything, and anything else disposable and lay them on the arm rest...right on top of the barrier that's on it. Then you just reach down and grab the opening of the trash can liner, and as you remove it from the arm/leg rest, it just swallows up everything you laid on it. Tie it and toss it!
Then all you need to do is wipe down the surfaces, and mist them with a germacidal (I use MadaCide FD) and allow it to air dry (which gives it time to kill the cooties) while I have a smoke break or talk to the next client.
If you work in an organized, clean area, and use a little creative thinking, it makes it very easy and efficient to keep people safe. |
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chrometattoo
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| Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:33 am Post subject: .. |
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good food for thought here, definitely convinced me not to consider getting tattooed at a convention  though it might be right for some; lots of good advice here I gotta consider when considering getting tattooed...
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Te Boon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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Hi. I have another couple of questions if you could possibly find the time to answer them.
Should the tattoo artist be opening his tubes from sterilized pouches infront of me rather than choosing his tubes from a pile in a stainless steel container.
Should the tattooist have his whole color supply within this procedure room in disposable bags? Or should he just have the selected coulours poured into caps relevant to my tattoo only.
I am asking these questions because this post is confirming my reasons for walking out of an apprenticeship
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BadWolf
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| Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Te Boon wrote: |
Should the tattoo artist be opening his tubes from sterilized pouches infront of me rather than choosing his tubes from a pile in a stainless steel container. |
Yes. The tubes and needles and everything else should be set up just before the tattoo. They should be removed from the bags while wearing gloves, in front of the client.
| Te Boon wrote: | | Should the tattooist have his whole color supply within this procedure room in disposable bags? Or should he just have the selected coulours poured into caps relevant to my tattoo only. |
The pigment should be stored away from the area that will become contaminated, and should be poured into ink caps for each client, then thrown away afterward. The bottles can be in the same room, but away from the area that they can become contaminated, and if you need more ink durring the tattoo, the gloves must be removed, then the ink poured, then new gloves put on. |
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